55.Morgane Dubled

56.Gabriel Perez

57.Hanaa Ben Abdesslem

58.Kristina Salinovic

憔悴的美丽。。。

60.Eve Salvail

61.Mylène Farmer

老顽童偕Mylène Farmer（被称作法国的麦当娜）谢幕。他居然穿上了如此正式的燕尾服，真是不可思议。一般设计师（Dior时期的加利亚诺除外）谢幕都会穿得很休闲，老顽童尤其如此，这次真是一反常态啊！有人说他是想借机向Mylène Farmer求婚，还单膝跪地。可他的性取向仍不是很明朗（性别模糊这一点在他的设计作品中也有体现），只知道他年轻时的男友得艾滋病死了。所以对于这件事大家怎么看？

补一张模特谢幕图。

时尚评论：
Tim Blanks
July 6， 2011
With actor Vincent Cassel winding up Natalie Portman about black swans and white swans on the soundtrack of Jean Paul Gaultier's new Couture presentation, one inference was that dancers and couturiers share an obsession with their craft. Gaultier currently has a three-decade-plus career retrospective running at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, and it is from all accounts a monument to glorious obsession. The retrospection seems to have led to reflection, because this collection cast its eye back over decades of boundary-pushing, taboo-busting innovation in design, from men in skirts to conical bras to unlikely hybrids (a biker tutu?). Hence the reappearance on Gaultier's runway—15 years to the day since she'd last walked in a fashion show—of Ève Salvail, whose shaven and tattoo-ed scalp was once such an affront to supermodel glamour. Here, the designer cast her against type as his white swan.
Though it's not the first time he's attempted such an overview, this was probably Gaultier's most accomplished one yet. From the first outfit—a chic pinstripe pantsuit that walked away to reveal a froth of tutu spilling out behind—his peerless tailoring was on parade. His signature mutated trench has rarely looked more gorgeous than it did here, reconfigured as an evening dress in pale gold silk faille and mousseline. The gender-bending took a turn for the opulent, too. The designer's male dandies were sloe-eyed decadents from a Diaghliev fantasy, in keeping with the ballet theme.
But the passage of time has taken the edge off such drollery. Gaultier's longtime male muse Tanel swishing down the catwalk in a floor-length skirt of ostrich feathers would once have sent a shiver of deliciousness through the crowd. Here, he was like a cuddly—if slightly ragged—uncle in his frock, in the same way that Gaultier himself is now one of the grand old(ish) men of haute couture. Which means there is today as much to appreciate in the way he carries the torch for tradition as there used to be in the way he challenged fashion orthodoxy.
The technical achievements in this collection included remarkable trompe l'oeil work with feathers (particularly an alpine ski sweater composed entirely of them). Gaultier's approach to plissé pleating echoed Madame Grès, subject of an exhibition currently running in Paris, which Jean Paul couldn't stop raving about after his own show. There was also some Dior in there, too. Those with a memory might recall the moment when Gaultier was mentioned as a possible candidate for that job, before Galliano snared it. Plus ça change…

Jean Paul Gaultier
PARIS, July 6, 2011
By Tim Blanks
Vincent Cassel和Natalie Portman在《黑天鹅》中起舞的音乐成为Jean Paul Gaultier新季定制发布的背景音乐，意味着舞者和定制设计师对于技艺有着同样的执著。现在，Gaultier的30年回顾展正在蒙特利尔美术馆展出，各种对于华美的执着见证汇聚于此。展览貌似也激起了设计师的回想，因为这个系列将目光转回几十年来的推进界限、挑战禁忌的创新设计，从男士裙装到锥形胸衣到不可思议的混杂（比如机车芭蕾裙？）。Ève Salvail再次出现在Gaultier的T台——距上次为Gaultier走秀已有15年，这位剃发并在头皮上刺青的模特再次向超模的优雅范儿提出挑战。这里，设计师挑选她作为白天鹅的对立一面。
虽然这不是他第一次试图展现矛盾对比，但这恐怕是Gaultier最成功的一次。从第一套外套开始——时髦的细条纹裤装套装，行走时露出腰间的芭蕾裙装饰——他无可比拟的裁剪技艺列队展示。标志性的异型战壕风衣很少能如今天般华美，变形为浅金色的丝质罗缎和府绸晚礼服。性别模糊的设计也转向了富丽的一面。设计师的纨绔子弟颓废的眼神微醺，如同芭蕾舞者以呼应主题。
时光的穿梭使得如此展示不再滑稽。Gaultier长久以来的男性缪斯Tanel以鸵鸟毛的曳地长裙横扫T台，向人群送去一丝颤意。他就像一个可爱的——也有点糙的——怪蜀黍，同样Gaultier本人已属高级定制的祖父级人物。这意味着如今对他高举传统旗帜的赞赏是基于当年他对正统时装的挑战。
技艺上的成就在于这个系列包括出众的视错羽毛设计（尤其是纯羽毛绣成的阿尔卑斯滑雪毛衫）。Gaultier对褶皱的处理令人想到格蕾夫人，巴黎正有相关的展览，在发布会后Jean Paul滔滔不绝地谈论着。同时还有些Dior的影子。曾有传言在Galliano入主Dior之前，Gaultier也是候选人之一。结果世事难料……

很遗憾，我找不到来自苏西·门克斯的评论。这种级别的秀配得上这种级别的的时尚评论。

温习完娜塔莉·波特曼的《黑天鹅》，再来看这场秀，这二者都是美妙愉悦的精神强暴。

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