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Welcome to our care and information article on the Eurydactylodes (yuree-dactyl-loadees). If this is your first time hearing about these guys, congratulations on discovering one of the most unique and interesting geckos around!
The Eurydactylodes genus consists of four species, E. agricolae, E. vieillardi, E. occidentalis and E. symmetricus. The two that are regularly available in the hobby are agricolae and vieillardi and this article will focus on those two specifically. All species are endemic to New Caledonia and inhabit the maquis scrub and sclerophyll forests. They can be found hanging out in low lying shrubs or similar vegetation. (Herpetofauna of New Caledonia; Aaron M. Bauer, R.A. Sadlier) These arboreal geckos rarely leave the vegetation and tend to remain out in the relative open even during the day rather than seeking out hiding places or shelters. They have strong feet and tails which allow them to cling rather tightly to small vines and branches. They are primarily nocturnal, but do move about to some degree during the day.
There are some common names for these geckos like Bauer's Chameleon Gecko for agricolae and Vieillardi's Chameleon Gecko for vieillardi. The common names have not really stuck and people generally just refer to them by their species name. People have different pronunciations for the species name which can at times be hilarious when trying to communicate with people who say it differently. We pronounce the names like this; agricolae (agri-cole-ee) and vieillardi (vai-lard-ee).

Vieillardi vs. Agricolae
Many folks wonder what the difference is between these two species. Which ones are more expensive, which ones get bigger or are prettier, and how on earth do I tell the difference between the two?
To answer some of these burning questions I'll start with with which is more expensive. E. vieillardi is less common in the hobby and therefore tends to be more expensive. The difference in price seems to be born out of pure economics rather than one being more aesthetically desirable than the other. There are just less vieillardi available to fill the demand which drives their prices a bit 网页链接 far as which species gets larger, our personal collection would suggest that E. agricolae get slightly larger as adults but others report the opposite to be true. Let's just say there is some size variation for adults of both species with an average total length being around 4.5-5.5 inches. Males are smaller than the females and are usually a little more brightly colored. On the question of which one is prettier, it's really a matter of personal opinion so we'll let you make up your own mind on that one.
Telling the difference between the two can be tricky at times. Vieillardi have more well defined scales, which allows experienced keepers to be able to tell the difference pretty easily. The most reliable way to tell which species you are dealing with is the yellow band, which for agricolae, extends from the mouth to the ear cavity. The band does not reach the ear cavity in vieillardi.

Care
Eurydactylodes are fairly easy to care for as they do not have stringent requirements as far as housing, temperature, humidity or feeding. They do require a little more effort to keep properly than other New Caledonian geckos but nothing that is beyond an intermediate keepers ability.
Housing
Hatchling to juvenile size specimens can be housed in plastic kritter keeper type enclosures or small glass terrariums. The medium or large Herp Haven kritter keeper is what we use until they are big enough to graduate to a permanent enclosure. As adults they can easily be housed in a 12x12x18 Exo Terra Terrarium singly, as pairs or as trios. Adult males will probably fight if housed together so make sure you have only one male per enclosure. The most important aspect of their set up is that they have plenty of climbing vines, branches or plants with a diameter small enough for them to fully grip onto. Larger diameter branches will not be utilized nearly as much so pay close attention to what you choose to use for climbing, keeping in mind they will spend nearly 100% of their time here. Humiditiy should be between 60%-80% but never drop below 50%. We recommend misting 1-2 times daily.

Feeding
Offer insects as well as fruit based gecko diets. Hatchlings should be offered either pinhead to 10 day old crickets or flightless fruit flies, both of which should be dusted with a calcium and vitamin D3 powder. They do not seem to like large prey items so keep that in mind when selecting food items. Adults can handle 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch sized crickets or similarly sized feeder roaches. Feed them insects at least 2-3 times per week and Pangea Fruit Mix Gecko Diets 2-3 times per week. Ours seem to prefer the Watermelon variety as well as the With Insects variety.

Light & Heat
These guys actually like to bask from time to time so we recommend a small wattage heat lamp at the top of their cage during the day. The light can be completely turned off at night allowing for a natural temperature drop. A 25-40 watt bulb should do the trick depending on ambient room temperature and the size of the tank. The basking spot should be the hottest spot in the cage should reach 82-85 Fahrenheit (27-29 C). Make sure to get yourself a good digital thermometer and measure temps at the basking spot as well as throughout the 网页链接 absolutely has to be enough space in the cage for them to retreat to an area that is closer to 75 degrees F (23-32 C). If the room they are in begins to get warm you should turn off the basking light. As a guideline the temperatures should be kept between 70-75 F (21-24 C) not including the basking 网页链接 basking spots really necessary? No, many keepers do not use them at all and have great success as long as the ambient temperatures are acceptable. Since basking appears to be a natural behavior for them we think it should be provided at least once they graduate to their permanent 网页链接 About UVB? Again many keepers do not use any UVB lighting and have zero problems. Those that do provide access to UVB lights report that their geckos are more active and have better, more vibrant color. Since these geckos do not hide away during the day it would make sense that they do get some exposure to UVB in the wild and may benefit from it in captivity. The verdict for UVB is that it's optional but 网页链接 geckos are a riot to watch at night when they are active. To view them more easily at night you can employ a red or blue reptile night light. There are many options and the most important factor would be to choose one that will not overheat them. If room allows, the Exo Terra Day/Night LED or the Exo Terra Full Moon LED work nicely for this.

ater & Humidity
Seeking out standing water to drink from does not come naturally to these guys, so it is important to mist them once or twice a day with enough water to provide droplets on the foliage and sides of the tank for them to lick up. There is no need to drench the tank with water, mist thoroughly while making sure that their enclosure dries completely between mistings. Even though they do not typically drink from dishes we always make sure there is a shallow dish of clean water with them as a backup source. A thirsty gecko will drink wherever it finds water.
Handling
You can handle your geckos if you choose to. Once they become used to it they are very mellow and will just cling to your finger or hand without much fussing about. They are not fast moving and rarely bite. Handling should be limited to 15 minutes or so a day so that they do not become stressed. Newly acquired animals should always be left alone for at least two weeks so they can acclimate to their new surroundings. Hatchlings should not be handled except to move them to a clean cage. Once they are 3 months old you can begin handling them starting with just a minute or two at a time and working your way up.

Behavior
When threatened or agitated, agricolae and vieillardi are capable of secreting a pungent smelling sticky substance from the caudal glands located in their tails. The science is still out on exactly what this is so nobody can really laugh at you when you call it "the weird, stinky, mystery goo". The secretions do not seem to irritate human skin but there are reports of it causing very intense irritation to the eyes. If you are unfortunate enough to get slimed, it goes without saying, wash up immediately. Geckos that are used to human interaction will not do this as long as care is taken not to startle them too 网页链接 of the great aspects about this genus is they do not autotomize their tails, meaning they do not drop them voluntarily in response to predators or extreme stress. If the tail is somehow severed partially or completely, it will regenerate.

以下是公众号的翻译
欢迎阅读我们写的关于鳄鳞守宫的文章，如果你是第一次听说这个家伙，那么恭喜你发现了一种最独特和有趣的守宫了。
鳄鳞守宫分为四个种类：EA EV EO ES.然而EA和EV在爱好者中最为关注常见的，所以本文也将特别关注这两种。这四个品种都是新喀里多尼亚特有的，栖息于沿海地带的灌木丛和硬叶树林中。他们可以在低洼的灌木丛和沿海地带的植被中被找到。（新喀里多尼亚的壁虎； Aaron M. Bauer, R.A. Sadlier）（这个可能是第一个有文字记载的发现者，因为鳄鳞守宫又叫鲍尔守宫，应该是以第一个发现者命名的）这些树栖守宫很少离开植被即使在白天也倾向于待在开阔的地方而不是躲避在隐蔽处。他们有粗壮的脚和尾巴可以紧紧抓住小藤蔓和树枝。他们主要在夜间活动，但是白天也会有活动迹象。
他们有一些共同的名字，比如鲍尔变色守宫，（后面是名字的不确定性，反正我是没怎么看懂，大致意思就是根据不同地区的不同发音名字有所区别）

EV和EA
很多人都想知道这两种之间的区别，哪种更贵，哪种更大或者漂亮，我们到底应该怎么区分它们？
为了回答这个棘手的问题，我将从哪个更贵开始说起，EV因为不太多见所以更加昂贵一些。价格的差异似乎只是源于经济效应而非一个比另外一个更具有欣赏价值。只有极少数的EV供玩家选择，使得求大于供。
至于那个品种会更大，在我的私人收藏里EA成体之后会更加大一些，但是这和有的人说法恰恰相反。就这样说吧，这两个品种的成体都有大小差异，平均总长度约为4.5-5.5英寸（11.4cm-14cm）雄性比雌性小，但是颜色更加鲜艳，至于哪个更漂亮这就是个人审美了，所以这由你自己决定。
区分两者有时候真的很棘手。EV有更清晰的纹路，这使得有经验的饲养者可以很轻松的分辨不同，最可靠的区分方法是黄带，对于EA来说，可以从嘴巴延伸至耳孔。而EV无法到达

照顾
鳄鳞守宫相当容易饲养的，因为他们没有严苛的生存要求比如温度，湿度以及食物。与其他R属守宫相比他们确实需要更多的照顾，但也不会超越中级难度。
环境
刚出壳的幼体可以放在塑料盒或者玻璃缸内。成体我们可以把他们安置在12*12*18的玻璃缸内，2到3只一组，成体雄性在一起可能会打斗，所以确保每个环境只能有一只雄性。最重要的是让他们有足够的可供攀爬的藤蔓树枝。直径过大的树枝没有利用价值，所以确保选用的攀爬树枝粗细，他们将在上面花费一天的时间。湿度应该控制在60%-80%之间，不能低于50%，我们建议每天喷水1-2次。
光照和温度
这些小家伙喜欢晒太阳，我们建议白天在网箱顶部放一盏小功率的加热灯。晚上可以关闭，使温度自然下降。一个25-40W的灯泡就足够了，这取决室温和网箱大小，晒点应该是箱子内最热的地方27-29摄氏度之间。在晒点和整个网箱内准备一个温度计，网箱内冷热区的范围维持在23-30度之间。如果室内开始暖和，你应该关掉日光灯温度维持在21-24之间。晒太阳真的有必要吗？不，很多饲养者根本不使用他们，只要温度可以接受就已经成功了。因为晒太阳对他们来说是自然行为，我们认为他们被人工饲养也应该需要提供。
那UVB呢？很多人不使用UVB也没有出任何问题，根据使用uvb的玩家所说他们的守宫更活跃颜色更鲜艳。因为他们白天不会躲藏起来，所以野外他们接触得到紫外线，但是人工饲养uvb是可选项不是必须项。
这些守宫晚上更活跃，所以晚上你可以使用红色蓝色的爬行动物夜灯，但是最重要的因素是不会太过热。如果空间允许某e牌的日灯夜灯月光灯都可以使用。

水和湿度
他们天生不会寻找积水饮用，所以每天一到两次的喷水很重要，这样他们可以喝到叶子和箱子残留的水滴。没必要把饲养箱淋透，在喷水的同时又要保证完全的干燥。尽管他们不喝水盆里的水，但是我们还是确保有一个水盆作为备用水源一只口渴的守宫找到水就会喝。
触摸
如果你愿意你可以触摸你的守宫，一旦他们习惯了你，他们会非常柔软并且紧紧抓住你的手指或者手。他们移动不快，几乎不咬人。上手时间每天15分钟左右，以免压力过大。新入的宠物应该单独饲养2周，这样他们才能适应新的环境。幼体不应该把玩，除非是把他们搬移至干净饲养盒，一旦他们3个月大你就可以开始触摸他们了，每次一至两分钟然后逐渐增加时间。

行为
当他们受到威胁或者烦躁不安时，他们会从尾部的尾端腺体内分泌出一种有刺激性气味的黏性物质。现在的科学还没有完全弄清楚这是什么物质。这些物质不会刺激人类皮肤，但是有数据表明它对眼睛有刺激。如果你不幸黏住马上清洗。只要小心不要过于用力，习惯和人互动的个体不会这样做。关于这个属有一个重要方面，他们不会断尾，所以他们不会因为捕食或者极端压力下自己断尾。如果尾巴以某种方式部分或者完全切断，他会再生。

这张是比较直观的四个种的对比图

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