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Paris, October 3, 2015
by Luke Leitch
Elie Saab is an eveningwear specialist with an established formula for often monochromatic, unapologetically romantic gowns studded with embellishment that’s as intricate as his ambition is straightforward: Saab wants to make his customers happy. Many of these customers—literally, hundreds of them—were at his show today, as usual accounting for one enormous big-haired and super-spritzed bank of seating at his Tuileries venue. What they saw, though, seemed subtly different from the designer’s tried-and-tested narrative.
“It’s not different,” demurred the man himself backstage afterward. “It’s the same. But the mix is different.”
In short, this meant the insertion of more separates and versatile day-to-night pieces before the introduction of Saab’s nocturnal standards. For proof, inspect the first looks on two of his big-name castings. Both Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner wore mid-length dresses; Hadid’s was tiered in blue lace, Jenner’s black and with an empire line. Over these, they wore bomber jackets—Hadid’s in rich candy-striped gazar, Jenner’s in a more softly toned floral embroidery. Although he is not entirely new to the bomber, to put both of these bound-to-be-Insta’d models in the jacket sent a message; this was Saab-meets-street. To underline that, there was a distinctly un-Saab black-flashed white tracksuit worn with flat sandals and Jenner’s floral bomber—which acted as a radical foil to the more conventional pussy-bowed white jacket and wide pants in broderie anglaise that had preceded it. Leather mini suits with small floral cutouts; a soft silk armless striped jacket; a cute black lace bomber; and a crystal-spattered, floral-patched, halter-neck white minidress (almost tennis-like in its silhouette) were a few other examples of the new elements in Saab’s mix. It made for a pleasantly broadened watching experience. But he was careful to emphasize, however, that he wasn’t about to throw the baby out with the bathwater: He makes a mean macramé lace gown—simultaneously wistful and willful of aspect—and there were plenty here. The closer to the finale, the denser the eveningwear became, alive with fin, sparkle, ripple, and train. By the time his stars reappeared—Jenner in a deep-V crystal and lace jumpsuit with two trails of sheer black silk that ran from shoulder to ankle and whipped in the air as she walked, and Hadid in a complicatedly luxe-goth black open-front dress of lace and silk panels—normal service had resumed. “I’ve just met many of my clients now and everybody is happy,” reported Saab. And if they’re happy, he’s happy.
Paris, October 3, 2015
by Luke Leitch
Elie Saab is an eveningwear specialist with an established formula for often monochromatic, unapologetically romantic gowns studded with embellishment that’s as intricate as his ambition is straightforward: Saab wants to make his customers happy. Many of these customers—literally, hundreds of them—were at his show today, as usual accounting for one enormous big-haired and super-spritzed bank of seating at his Tuileries venue. What they saw, though, seemed subtly different from the designer’s tried-and-tested narrative.
“It’s not different,” demurred the man himself backstage afterward. “It’s the same. But the mix is different.”
In short, this meant the insertion of more separates and versatile day-to-night pieces before the introduction of Saab’s nocturnal standards. For proof, inspect the first looks on two of his big-name castings. Both Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner wore mid-length dresses; Hadid’s was tiered in blue lace, Jenner’s black and with an empire line. Over these, they wore bomber jackets—Hadid’s in rich candy-striped gazar, Jenner’s in a more softly toned floral embroidery. Although he is not entirely new to the bomber, to put both of these bound-to-be-Insta’d models in the jacket sent a message; this was Saab-meets-street. To underline that, there was a distinctly un-Saab black-flashed white tracksuit worn with flat sandals and Jenner’s floral bomber—which acted as a radical foil to the more conventional pussy-bowed white jacket and wide pants in broderie anglaise that had preceded it. Leather mini suits with small floral cutouts; a soft silk armless striped jacket; a cute black lace bomber; and a crystal-spattered, floral-patched, halter-neck white minidress (almost tennis-like in its silhouette) were a few other examples of the new elements in Saab’s mix. It made for a pleasantly broadened watching experience. But he was careful to emphasize, however, that he wasn’t about to throw the baby out with the bathwater: He makes a mean macramé lace gown—simultaneously wistful and willful of aspect—and there were plenty here. The closer to the finale, the denser the eveningwear became, alive with fin, sparkle, ripple, and train. By the time his stars reappeared—Jenner in a deep-V crystal and lace jumpsuit with two trails of sheer black silk that ran from shoulder to ankle and whipped in the air as she walked, and Hadid in a complicatedly luxe-goth black open-front dress of lace and silk panels—normal service had resumed. “I’ve just met many of my clients now and everybody is happy,” reported Saab. And if they’re happy, he’s happy.
Elie Saab - 青年大骚动(Youth Quake)
作者：萌萌的苏西大妈
青春鸟的甜美歌声响彻Elie Saab的新系列——而这不仅是因为观秀嘉宾全都手机一刻不离手。设计师本季的设计主题是蕾丝和运动风，而他本人为人熟知的代表作则是华丽的晚礼服。这次他将闪耀华服留待高定系列展示，而在2016夏季成衣系列中用条纹丝质飞行员夹克搭配蕾丝短裙，甚至推出了一套高级运动服。添加细缎带蝴蝶结颈饰、高腰短裙或短裤，一股完美的青春风暴就这样席卷而来。我并非对Saab的年轻化倾向有什么意见，当然这次的大部分服装都是偏长款的裙装，那么他的设计重心是否算是在妈妈辈和女儿辈之间寻到了平衡？
The sweet bird of youth was tweeting through the Elie Saab collection - and not just because the blocks of clients were wedded to their cell phones.Lace and sport were the themes for this designer, better know for sumptuous evening gowns. He had left the glam slam to his couture line, giving the summer 2016 collection striped silk bomber jackets over short lacy skirts - and even sending out an upscale tracksuit.Add skinny ribbon bows at the neck, raised waists and shorts, and there was a perfect storm of youth. Not to be churlish about Saab turning girly - surely most of these outfits, with longer skirts, are focused as much on mother as daughter?
作者：萌萌的苏西大妈
青春鸟的甜美歌声响彻Elie Saab的新系列——而这不仅是因为观秀嘉宾全都手机一刻不离手。设计师本季的设计主题是蕾丝和运动风，而他本人为人熟知的代表作则是华丽的晚礼服。这次他将闪耀华服留待高定系列展示，而在2016夏季成衣系列中用条纹丝质飞行员夹克搭配蕾丝短裙，甚至推出了一套高级运动服。添加细缎带蝴蝶结颈饰、高腰短裙或短裤，一股完美的青春风暴就这样席卷而来。我并非对Saab的年轻化倾向有什么意见，当然这次的大部分服装都是偏长款的裙装，那么他的设计重心是否算是在妈妈辈和女儿辈之间寻到了平衡？
The sweet bird of youth was tweeting through the Elie Saab collection - and not just because the blocks of clients were wedded to their cell phones.Lace and sport were the themes for this designer, better know for sumptuous evening gowns. He had left the glam slam to his couture line, giving the summer 2016 collection striped silk bomber jackets over short lacy skirts - and even sending out an upscale tracksuit.Add skinny ribbon bows at the neck, raised waists and shorts, and there was a perfect storm of youth. Not to be churlish about Saab turning girly - surely most of these outfits, with longer skirts, are focused as much on mother as daughter?
