Suzy Menkes：Dolce & Gabbana的仲夏夜之梦

还要再爬多少级古老的石阶？我们从波托菲诺湾出发，经过Stefano Gabbana银灰色的游艇，穿过郁郁葱葱的绿地，瞥见笼罩在梦幻般闪烁灯光中的16世纪城堡Castello Brown，一路向上行走。
How many more old stone steps to climb? Up, up, up we walked, from the Portofino Bay, past Stefano Gabbana’s silver-grey yacht, and through thick greenery with a glimpse of sixteenth-century fortress Castello Brown, covered in twinkling fairy lights.
终于，我们来到了Domenico Dolce的山顶大宅，这里即将上演一场如同仲夏狂欢似的高级时装发布会。
And now finally, we reach Domenico Dolce’s hilltop house, where there will be an experience of high fashion as midsummer madness.

我思考了一下两位设计师关于激发情感的意图。悠扬的歌剧音乐和模特身上充满精妙细节的服装，加上两大不凡的手笔：紧身胸衣上的小贴花和衬裙上大片夺目的印花，赋予我甜美而强烈的感官体验。黄金是一个主题，彰显在从水晶到金属头饰等无数花样纷繁的镀金装饰中。
I thought about the designers’ desire to stir emotions.I had felt a sweet, sensual overload as operatic strains soared and the models walked in clothing of such minute details, coupled with big gestures: tiny flowers appliquéd on bodices and splashy prints on crinoline skirts.Gold was a theme, and it showed in the immense variation of gilded finishings, from crystals to metallic headdresses.
发布会后，我打破规则，以记者的身份与他们的顾客聊天。他们异口同声地表示：他们都是为了这份“体验”而来，包括明晚的第三场秀：被称为Alta Sartoria的定制男装秀。这些顾客来自世界各地，其中看上去更浮夸的来自亚洲或俄罗斯。
After the presentation I broke house rules and talked, as a journalist, to the clients. They all said the same thing: that they had come for the “experience”, which included a third show the following evening: bespoke menswear, known as Alta Sartoria.These clients had come from all over the world, with the more flamboyant being Asian or Russian.Dolce & Gabbana shuttered their lower-priced D&G line in 2011 to focus on ready-to-wear and to elevate Alta Moda.

而整个时尚界似乎正在向两极分化：超便宜的“快时尚”和精工细作而成的定制服装。让我们援引近期饮食文化界一场运动中的说法，将后者称为“慢”时尚吧。制作出近百件拥有如此完美制衣工艺的服装，令Dolce & Gabbana的这一系列看上去举世无双。
And the fashion world in general seems to be moving towards two polar opposites: ultra cheap ‘fast fashion’, and couture that is built on handwork and detail. Let’s take the lead from a recent movement in food culture and call this latter approach ‘slow’ fashion.To produce almost one hundred pieces of such sartorial perfection made this Dolce & Gabbana collection seem out of this world.
或者，用莎翁充满诗意的语言来说：“你真能断定我们醒着？在我看来，我们仍在沉睡，在幻梦。”
Or, as William Shakespeare put it so poetically: “Are you sure that we are awake? It seems to me that yet we sleep, we dream.”

http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/09/21/the-couture-club?utm_source=BoF+China&utm_campaign=dfd6153998-&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_ce0760725e-dfd6153998-418274925

这么美丽的秀，居然不公开！

仲夏夜之梦

我可以帮给图吗

瑰丽的色彩