时尚评论: Sarah Mower January 24,2007 The couture faithful at Jean Paul Gaultier may not have literally expected a full religious experience, but that's what they got, complete with a large puff of incense and a visitation by the saints. From first to last, every model wore a halo. Their faces were painted like plaster statues, their garb inspired by the vernacular devotional art found in local churches throughout the Catholic world. Was it an outrage? Well, not really. Gaultier has treated religion in some very provocative ways, not the least of which was, way back, a tableau of the crucified Christ. But this time, the tone, if not precisely reverential, wasn¿t calculated to mock. Instead, his ingenious skews on church iconography seemed gently appreciative of its capacity for shining beauty. Not that he wasn't witty about it. What looked like monastic hoods and nunlike wimples were, in fact, integral stoles that spiraled from the back of a chic black dress or a pair of pants (revealing some sexy slices of skin on the way). Lace and crochet-work commonly used to decorate shrines were remade into formfitting gowns. And the colors—faded pinks, cobwebby gray, and Madonna blue—were lifted from hand-tinted holy cards and stained glass. Result? Shorn of the odd bleeding Sacred Heart and communion chalice appliqué, there's plenty in this collection that qualifies as Jean Paul Gaultier couture at its best.
中文翻译: Jean Paul Gualiterd的时装信徒们可能完全没有预料到将体验一次截然不同的宗教之旅。然而在一片薄烟之中,模特们如同时尚圣者造访人间。她们头戴着光环样的头饰,精心雕饰过的脸庞如同画中人般鲜明到几乎不真实的地步,脸颊上的泪滴带着几许悲天悯人的情怀。 教堂拼花玻璃的图案,钩针编织的蕾丝花边,修道士的肃穆长袍与修女的头巾,包括其他在教堂内随处可见的艺术素材,均被设计师信手拈来,融入高级定制的时尚精致之中。柔滑的丝绸流动着圣洁的光芒,立体的心型在服饰外凸显着不同的情绪。褪色的粉红,蛛网般的灰色,湖绿与棕黄,宗教系的色彩被处理的柔美动人。最令人啧啧称奇的还是那些圆环状的头饰细节,或晶莹剔透,或妖冶多姿,或纷繁华丽,以各种形态展现主题的同时,成为服饰之外另一大引人注目的焦点。 并非牵强附会,Gaultier只是以他别具煽动性的姿态来处理宗教的主题。或许另类,或许奇异,但你不得不承认经过设计师的高超演绎,她们是如此的美不胜收。