时尚评论：
Luke Leitch
March 7，2015
Set in a forest of cardboard cutout trees, this was supposed to be a darkly romantic sylvan slink. Which it was. Elie Saab layered on more rustling foliage than you'd find in the Bois de Vincennes. Yet it transported to New York, too: It had the slickness, the glossiness, and the conventional decadence of the city's greatest billboard commercial designers—Burch, Kors, Herrera, et al.
In Paris it is unusual to attend a show where the designer makes no attempt—even emptily, disingenuously, or cosmetically—at some artsy-fartsy proposition. Saab, to his credit, didn't bother. Instead he presented a collection heaped with leafiness: leafy printed macramé lace, leafy appliqué on leather, leafy chiffon, leafy-toned tweeds, and leafy-toned fox fur—you get the drift. Trousers were cut high, skirts were full, and cutaway panels accordioned around the crucial junctures—come-hither frescoes of flesh. Sure, a great many looks were black—and burgundy, too, seemed an odd choice for such an autumnally defined collection. But really, Saab knows what flatters, so why trouble with the small stuff?
Luke Leitch
March 7，2015
Set in a forest of cardboard cutout trees, this was supposed to be a darkly romantic sylvan slink. Which it was. Elie Saab layered on more rustling foliage than you'd find in the Bois de Vincennes. Yet it transported to New York, too: It had the slickness, the glossiness, and the conventional decadence of the city's greatest billboard commercial designers—Burch, Kors, Herrera, et al.
In Paris it is unusual to attend a show where the designer makes no attempt—even emptily, disingenuously, or cosmetically—at some artsy-fartsy proposition. Saab, to his credit, didn't bother. Instead he presented a collection heaped with leafiness: leafy printed macramé lace, leafy appliqué on leather, leafy chiffon, leafy-toned tweeds, and leafy-toned fox fur—you get the drift. Trousers were cut high, skirts were full, and cutaway panels accordioned around the crucial junctures—come-hither frescoes of flesh. Sure, a great many looks were black—and burgundy, too, seemed an odd choice for such an autumnally defined collection. But really, Saab knows what flatters, so why trouble with the small stuff?
